How to Make an SLA Finishing Station // 3d Printing How to Make Axe Throwing For Kids 2 days ago   11:43

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We got a new SLA resin 3d printer, so we made a finishing station to help clean up and cure the prints. Sponsored by CuriosityStream, for a free month, go to https://curiositystream.com/iltms and use the code "iltms"
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PEOPOLY MOAI 200 SLA PRINTER FROM MATTERHACKERS: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/peopoly?aff=7403
https://kit.com/iliketomakestuff/sla-finishing-station
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For this project, we are making a cabinet specifically made to wrap around our new SLA (Stereolithography Apparatus) printer from our friends at Matterhackers, the Moai 200 from Peopoly. We are using this machine to make some super-detailed prints for a collaborative project with Tested.com and Adam Savage to replicate the Apollo 11 Command Module hatch called Project Egress. This printer is very large, think minifridge sized. It isn't practical to sit it on a table and the top surface isn't large enough to be an adequate work surface. Our design will add a set of shelves beside the printer that will match its height and a tabletop that will span across the top of the two.

I cut the pieces out of 1/2" plywood on the table saw and assembled the 3-shelf unit with glue and brad nails. The height was based on the size of the printer so it may not be the same in your instance. I also cut a door that will fit inside of the top cubby. This door will close off the light from the curing area we made in the next section. The table top was placed on top of the shelving unit and brad nailed from underneath. The whole unit was set in place overtop of the printer and it looked great!

SLA printing works by curing liquid resin inside the printer. Once the print is complete it is covered with uncured resin and the part itself isn't yet fully cured. When the part is removed from the build plate, it needs to be rinsed with alcohol (we used denatured, but isopropyl works too) so that the extra liquid resin is removed. The build plate itself has to be cleaned of residual resin so that it is ready to use on the next print.

Because of the size of this large printer, the cleaning process requires a lot of alcohol. We needed a bath of sorts to clean the build plate and a rinse jar to clean the part. I got 2 plastic storage bins the same width as the build plate (so I didn't have to use too much alcohol) and poked holes in one of them. The idea would be that I could lift the holed bin up out of the other and it would act as a colander leaving the solid pieces in the top and the alcohol in the bottom.

For the part cleaning, Josh found a plastic storage bin that is made for keeping vegetables fresh. It has a clear plastic outer bin and a perforated basket on the inside with a lid. With this basket, we can dunk the part in the alcohol, lightly brush it with a soft-bristle brush, and easily remove it to dry. Both of these containers will be covered and set on top of the cabinet surface as part of the finishing station. We covered the top of the cabinet with come contact paper so that the resin and alcohol wouldn't reach the wooden surface, keeping it cleaner over time.

Once the part is dry from its alcohol bath, it still isn't finished. The resin isn't fully cured yet and to complete that process it needs to be exposed to ultraviolet light for 20-30 minutes.  The top cubby in the shelving unit will act as a UV light box equipped with a small light-activated turntable. The turntable allows every side of the part to be hit with UV light to maximize even exposure.

Josh order a strand of UV LEDs with an adhesive backing; the set came with a power adapter and an on/off switch. I cut a scrap piece of wood, covered it with aluminum ducting tape, and stuck the LED strip to it. I had to double the lights over creating a zig-zag path to cover the whole wooden sheet. To make the rest of the reflective walls inside the cubby, I used some left-over mirror tiles that were 12" x 12". To save weight, the door was covered in the same reflective aluminum tape and attached to the shelving unit with some face-mounted hinges. Now, when the light-activated turntable is placed inside and the lights are turned on, the part can rotate around and bask in the curing glow of 360 degree UV light.
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Comments 247 Comments

The P.I. Workshop
To see our 3d printed entry for Project Egress see it here https://www.instagram.com/p/BztWY1LAbDh/
Antibody Entertainment
Hey bob, you should try MR clean or simply green and a ultrasonic bath to clean your resin prints, and or print bed. I cant remember who did a video on it, but it seems pretty dang effective and no need to brush your parts (for that oh so gooood finish lol)
Mickie
please never say “squirting out” ever again
Icemanmodeler
Good job but u have to move the curing station every time u need to level the printer assuming it has the same system as a regular Moai.
KING_SKOBE •
I’ve been watching you since I was I was 6 I’m now 11


You were a big part in my childhood creativity wise so thank you for making me the person I am today
Jake Goldberg
Hey Bob, mirrors would not be good for this project, because glass is not transparent to UV wavelengths of light. Since mirrors are a reflective surface behind a pane of glass I don't think mirrors would reflect UV light well. The best option for this project might be to line the walls with aluminum foil.
Intan payung
can you make a board games projects?
Kaleb Barbour
So cool!
Tricknologyinc
Aluminum tape is expensive and looks even worse than aluminum foil wrap burnished flat, or you could have mounted channels to slide a mirror into!
Skyler Hotchkiss
Bob, you should put a small timer on the door so you know its finished
Eco Mouse
I'm pretty sure that mirrors like that actually have UV absorbing properties as part of the glass composition. The reflective portion of most mirrors is actually on the back of the glass. If you went to a glass company, you can specifically ask to have zero UV protection glass. In this particular case, I think I would just buy some pre-polished/mirror stainless steel.
WillieRants
No link to the printer
Slytherin Reviews
I may need help with planning a new desk build
Brent Oberholzer
good job on watching where your fingers were when you were Brad nailing
Alex Stewart
dont wash the bed, just wipe it with ipa and that will make it clean enough
BurnerProducts RocketStoves
Also there is an option to recess the hinges between the sides and the door. And even easier option, just align the hinge to the outer border of the sides an get those 1-2mm over on the door side. It does not need to be centered on the gap. Than on the other side of the door, take little off from the inside corner, to make sure it does not bind up on the side while opening. That is it. Keep up the good work.
Ubbe Berg
A UV-box like that is perfect for curing screens for screen-printing . :)
D2K Prime
You live a blessed-life Bob.
ties pau
For a brief moment I forgot sla does not mean lettuce in English, and I was really confused what this build was supposed to be
Scott
Mirrored plexiglass would work even better as it is thinner and lighter.
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How to Make Axe Throwing For Kids How to Make an SLA Finishing Station // 3d Printing 2 days ago   09:00

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We made axe throwing for kids! It's a much safer and more inexpensive way for the whole family to participate in the ever-popular axe throwing craze! Come see how you can make a setup of your own!
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https://iliketomakestuff.com/how-to-make-axe-throwing-for-kids/

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If you remember from our Giant Slip N'Slide video, we used a ton of orange pool noodles to keep the water inside the big tarp. I took about 10 of those left-over noodles and cut them up on the band saw. You could totally use a utility knife to cut the foam into thin strips if that's what you had. Once I had a bunch of strips, I cross cut them down so that they extend above the lip of a plastic container I had lying around.

The intent of this bundle-of-carrot-looking contraption is that a thin cutout of an axe would wedge itself inside of the the foam strips instead of bouncing off the uniform face. In order to create this uneven and wedge-able surface, Josh and Anthony sanded each foam strip to a point. Now we had a basket of pointed foam spikes instead of pretend carrots. This was the only labor-intensive portion of this project. Filling the container with as many pool noodle spikes quite tightly leave the longer ends to fan out a bit while holding them in place without any adhesive.

Now that our target was ready, I drove in some simple screws into the sides and attached a string to hang it on the wall. Josh made some rounded-edge weapon templates and we used the laser cutter to quickly cut out an arsenal of thin, kid-safe throwing weapons. We had axes, throwing knives, ninja stars, and a host of Nerf guns at the ready. I wrapped a few axes in EVA foam to give them a bit of heft in your hand and sculpted the pieces using the sanders. These axes felt great as props, but the wider head was more difficult to stick into the target.

We've included the templates below if you want to make the throwing axes yourself. Please know that even though they are rounded off, when you throw things, they can hurt people so use safe practices and don't throw them at anything that can get hurt. This is meant to be fun.

Just like real axe throwing, there is a technique to getting the axes to stick and it was a lot of fun. We hung the target from a tree, but you could totally hang this in the house on a rainy day or for a birthday party. I hope you liked this project and I hope it encourages you to make fun and exciting projects with your family.

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